Welt pocket with angled seams

It was fun to read your answers to the post with the picture of the strange pattern piece. Very good those of you who were close or knew the answer!

The welt is also called “origami welt”, I believe Kenneth D. King calls it that. Its main feature is that the seams are not at the sides of the welt, but as you saw in my previous post, on the back. It makes for a welt with less bulk.

Below the steps I took to make the pattern piece for it:

This is the original pattern piece, with foldline and straight of grain indicated.

P4170294

On the part that will be the back of the welt, two lines are drawn where the seam lines will be. To clarify I’ve marked the seams with line notches.

P4170295

The seam lines are cut and added to the front part of the welt

image

The final pattern piece, in paper and in fabric as shown in my “riddle” post. The fabric one is the mirror image, with seams added.

P4170298

IMG_0663

Sew the seams, matching the notches (I added 1cm seams to the pattern piece and made the edge match)

IMG_0664

Trim to the points and press.

IMG_0665

Turn the welt and press.

IMG_0667

Two welts, ready to be inserted in the garment.

IMG_0668

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

About t-shirts and hemming with coverstitch

Image
Pictures of the finished skirt have to wait. I want to hem my skirt with “steam a seam” tape but forgot to buy it and as most of my fabrics and notions are in storage, I had none available at all. So I spent my weekend sewing two t-shirts. The pattern is the Ann T-top from StyleArc: I’ve made this pattern several times now and it’s a great basic. After the initial one last year (never blogged about as far as I remember) I removed the gathers in the front by folding up at waist level. Until recently I used an old Ottobre pattern from 2007 as my base for t-shirts, which is still a great pattern. But, as you can guess, it’s in storage (by accident though). The neckline and hems of both t-shirts were finished with a coverstitch. I’ve had a love/hate relationship with my Janome coverstitch for quite a long time, but have become used to it and now it’s taken out and used regularly. For a long time I did not use it properly either and on the inside you could see the edge of the hem st...
Read more

Book review - Patternmaking for jacket and coat design

Image
A few of you expressed an interest in a proper review for the book Patternmaking for jacket and coat design by Pamela Vanderlinde. I found this book online when I was browsing through online bookstores looking for another book. As I’ve done quite a bit of pattern drafting in the past 2-3 years and have bought quite a few reference books on drafting as well, this caught my eye. Seeing some pages of it online I got really interested. It seemed to work from the same kind of block/sloper that I made for myself in Suzy Furrer’s Craftsy class so would help me get further from that starting point. I was not disappointed: it does work from a block or sloper, but the draft of a basic block or sloper is not included in the book . The author assumes you have a sloper to start with (explicitly mentioned in the book) and also assumes you know the basic terminology. I don’t have any problems understanding what is meant. Drafts for 1 piece or 2 piece sleeves are included and drafted different from ...
Read more

Burda dress 119, changes to pattern and construction

Image
There were a few changes I made to the pattern prior to and during construction. For those of you interested in the details, this is what I did. As indicated in the first post on this dress last week, I lengthened the upper body by 1.5 inch. This isn’t hard to do: fold the pleat on the right pattern piece, match it with the placement line on the left pattern piece and you have a full front in which it’s easy to draw a line to lengthen (or shorten) it. I did this just below the armhole. After that the seamlines, diagonal fold and placement lineslines are trued again. Of course this change of length is to be done on the back pattern piece too. This is not an error in the pattern piece. I know my upper body is longer than average and it’s a change I always do in Burda patterns. The other change was cutting off the extra triangle pieces that are on the right side pattern pieces for the top, skirt and waist part. Initially I cut them and understood what the intention was, an extra pleat abo...
Read more