Dress muslin

The muslin of the upper part of the dress was easily made. I only cut seam allowances to the shoulder, side and center back seam. Then I marked with carbon tracing paper and stitched it together.
The result was definitely in the right direction, but a few changes were necessary.
I cut this on the bias, as I intend to do on with the fashion fabric too.

The back: I did not sew  the back darts and therefor took some extra space from center back and removed a bit of the side seam. It’s too wide and the back armhole is gaping a bit.
P9280880
The back with a bit more taken from the side seam and just a little bit taken from the armhole, tapering to nothing in the back neck.
P9280901
The front doesn’t look bad, no gaping at the armhole, cowl depth is fine. It could be a little less wide at the side seams too.
I haven’t made a dress from this sloper with a waist seam. Seeing these pictures and the line marking the waist, I think my waistline is too low. I’d like to hear your opion on that.
P9280882
This is the front after the side seams are taken in a bit. Could be a bit less?
P9280893
Before and after of the armhole. The armhole on the sloper is fine for a garment with sleeves. You need a bit more room for movement of your arms. On a sleeveless dress this is not an issue and I took out about 1 cm.

P9280886P9280900
Any thoughts on improving the fit are welcome and appreciated.

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

About t-shirts and hemming with coverstitch

Image
Pictures of the finished skirt have to wait. I want to hem my skirt with “steam a seam” tape but forgot to buy it and as most of my fabrics and notions are in storage, I had none available at all. So I spent my weekend sewing two t-shirts. The pattern is the Ann T-top from StyleArc: I’ve made this pattern several times now and it’s a great basic. After the initial one last year (never blogged about as far as I remember) I removed the gathers in the front by folding up at waist level. Until recently I used an old Ottobre pattern from 2007 as my base for t-shirts, which is still a great pattern. But, as you can guess, it’s in storage (by accident though). The neckline and hems of both t-shirts were finished with a coverstitch. I’ve had a love/hate relationship with my Janome coverstitch for quite a long time, but have become used to it and now it’s taken out and used regularly. For a long time I did not use it properly either and on the inside you could see the edge of the hem st...
Read more

Book review - Patternmaking for jacket and coat design

Image
A few of you expressed an interest in a proper review for the book Patternmaking for jacket and coat design by Pamela Vanderlinde. I found this book online when I was browsing through online bookstores looking for another book. As I’ve done quite a bit of pattern drafting in the past 2-3 years and have bought quite a few reference books on drafting as well, this caught my eye. Seeing some pages of it online I got really interested. It seemed to work from the same kind of block/sloper that I made for myself in Suzy Furrer’s Craftsy class so would help me get further from that starting point. I was not disappointed: it does work from a block or sloper, but the draft of a basic block or sloper is not included in the book . The author assumes you have a sloper to start with (explicitly mentioned in the book) and also assumes you know the basic terminology. I don’t have any problems understanding what is meant. Drafts for 1 piece or 2 piece sleeves are included and drafted different from ...
Read more

Burda dress 119, changes to pattern and construction

Image
There were a few changes I made to the pattern prior to and during construction. For those of you interested in the details, this is what I did. As indicated in the first post on this dress last week, I lengthened the upper body by 1.5 inch. This isn’t hard to do: fold the pleat on the right pattern piece, match it with the placement line on the left pattern piece and you have a full front in which it’s easy to draw a line to lengthen (or shorten) it. I did this just below the armhole. After that the seamlines, diagonal fold and placement lineslines are trued again. Of course this change of length is to be done on the back pattern piece too. This is not an error in the pattern piece. I know my upper body is longer than average and it’s a change I always do in Burda patterns. The other change was cutting off the extra triangle pieces that are on the right side pattern pieces for the top, skirt and waist part. Initially I cut them and understood what the intention was, an extra pleat abo...
Read more